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Ama Dablam
Mahalangur Range

Ama Dablam

The Matterhorn of the Himalayas • 6,812m

6,812 meters / 22,349 feetRegion: Khumbu / SolukhumbuClimbing Grade: Strenuous

Overview & Geography

Renowned as one of the most stunning and photogenic peaks in the world, Ama Dablam (6,812m) is a technical masterpiece of sheer rock towers, knife-edge ridges, and hanging glaciers in the Everest region.

Ama Dablam translates to 'Mother's Necklace': the long ridges extending on either side represent the protective arms of a mother ('Ama'), while the hanging serac on the southwest face resembles a 'Dablam', the traditional double-sided gold pendant worn by Sherpa women. Looming over Tengboche and Dingboche, it is considered the holy grail of technical alpine mountaineering in the Khumbu, requiring steep rock climbing, hard water ice, and razor-edge ridge traversal.

Ascent History & Heritage

First Historic AscentMarch 13, 1961 (1961)
Summit ClimbersMike Gill (New Zealand), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK), Wally Romanes (New Zealand)

First climbed on March 13, 1961 by members of Sir Edmund Hillary's Silver Hut Scientific Expedition. The technical nature of the Southwest Ridge has since made it one of the most coveted mountaineering summits in the world.

Expedition Highlights

1

Known worldwide as 'The Matterhorn of the Himalayas' for its striking aesthetic pyramid

2

Southwest Ridge - Premier technical alpine rock and ice route in Nepal

3

Yellow Tower - Famous vertical granite pitch leading into Camp 2

4

Visible from almost every stage of the Everest Base Camp trail between Namche and Dingboche

Standard Route

Standard Route

Southwest Ridge (Classic technical line)

Unmatched vertical exposure, dramatic camp perches on narrow ledges over 6,000m, and views of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu from the summit.

Climber Advisories & Tips

  • •Unlike 8,000m walking routes, Ama Dablam requires solid 5.8 rock climbing and WI4 ice climbing competence on fixed lines.
  • •Trekkers can visit Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,600m) as an unforgettable day trip from Pangboche on the EBC trek.
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